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整理人: ondyno(2003-02-11 14:19:05), 站内信件
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关于aid climbing
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本贴内容为原创作品,版权为作者和版主共同所有,内容观点不代表乐趣园立场。
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以下似乎标准的解释给我这么一种感觉：这些难度与路线关系不大，而与一次攀爬的过程关系更大。比如说：这次开线过程，按以下标准应为A2，毕竟举着钻吭吭干了半天。而之后再爬则连算A1都有些勉强，不知理解得对否。
至于这条路线，初衷是自己想练习一下aid,实地操作一下。同时有兴趣的人以后可以安全的也在此练习。
爬个野外25米高6米长的真正屋檐？安全！不想试试？
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比较令人欣慰的，人工攀登的等级全世界都用同一个标准——A1到A5。遗憾的是，对这个标准却有许多种解释。一般来说，某处的等级总是依赖于第一次完成时的记载。
一般情况，也是较传统的说法——人工攀登等级的制定遵从于:
A1: 所有的受力点的放置都简单和可靠。
A2: 所有的受力点的放置还算可靠，但操作过程有一点困难和别扭。
A3: 许多受力点的放置是不可靠的，但经常有可靠的保护点。
A4: 个别连续的不能经受大于体重负荷的受力点。
A5: 连续20米以上，大量不可靠受力点。
在欧洲，大多数人工路线是很久以前就完成了的，这些路线的等级难度有些已经被降级了。简单的说，A3保护点的放置是不算可靠的，但是可以经受住短距离的冲坠。A4将会有一些只能经受住体重的保护点，但是连续出现的情况并不常见。A5还未听说过。而A0是用来定义那些有永久性的牢靠的保护点的路线的。
在美国，现代器材和激情驱使人们不断的攀登越来越高和难的大岩壁。在不可思议的短短的十年之中将人工攀登推向极致。同时也改变了对等级标准的解释。这是John Long 和 John Middendorf在《Big Wall》一书中对现代人工攀登等级标准的解释：
A0: 挂在器材上，踩在岩锥上，拉着诸如岩塞之类的东西上向上爬。不必一定要用梯子，但也不能叫“自由攀”。也许可以叫“法式自由攀”。
A1: 简单的攀登。受力点的放置既简单又牢固，每一个都经得起冲坠。
A2: 中等的攀登。坚固但经常很困难放置好的受力点。在一个牢靠的受力点上会有一两个不可靠的受力点。坠落姿态不危险。
A2+: 中等的攀登。在一个牢靠的受力点上会有更多个不可靠的受力点。有严重冲坠的可能，但一般没什么大事。
A3: 困难的攀登。连续的多个不可靠的受力点，每个都必须在加载体重前在上面测试。虽然每个pitch里都有几个可靠的点，但是它们很少，相距很远。在坠落中，会有八个以上的受力点可能脱落，有一点危险。要花几个小时才能完成一个pitch。
A3+: A3，但如果坠落会很危险。
A4: 艰难的攀登。大多数受力点经受不住体重，同时一旦坠落会有严重后果。从一个可靠的受力点向上继续攀爬10-15米的情况并不少见。
A4+: 非常艰难的攀登。受力点的情况总是非常边缘并且每个pitch都是这样，要花很多小时来完成。
A5: 极端艰难的攀登。整个pitch中没有一个受力点值得信任。所有的pitch中没有一个bolts。
A6: 即使是pitch之间的锚点也经受不住坠落，如果一个人坠落则全队跳伞。所有经历过A6的人都不健全，至今没有一个可以做出可靠报告的神经病回来。
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原文如下：（转载自……网上什么地方）
A Few Words on Ratings and Grades - Aid Climbing
The good news about aid climbing rating scales is that the whole world uses a single scale that goes from A1 to A5. The bad news is that there are many interpretations of that scale. It will all depend on where and when that first ascent was made.
For most purposes, the following - general - aid rating scale will do:
A1: All placements are rock solid and easy.
A2: Placements are still bomber, but the placements are awkward and a few difficult may be difficult.
A3: Many placements are difficult, but there is the occasional bomber piece.
A4: There are several placements in a row that will hold nothing more than body weight.
A5: 20 meters (60 ft) or more of body placements in a row.
In Europe, where most aid climbs were made long ago, this scale may be adjusted downward. Put simply, A3 placements are difficult, but will hold a short fall. A4 will involve some body weight placements, but not necessarily many in a row. And A5 is just unheard of. In Europe, A0 is used to indicate that fixed (and solid) pro is in place.
In the USA, modern equipment and the unrelentless drive to climb ever bigger and more difficult Big Walls, has pushed aid climbing to limits that were unimaginable a few decades ago. This has also changed the interpretation of the rating scales. This is how John Long and John Middendorf interpret the modern aid climbing ratings it in their 'Big Wall' book:
A0: Hanging from gear, stepping on pitons, pulling up on nuts, etc. Everything that doesn't require aiders and can't be honestly called 'free climbing'. Also known as "french free".
A1: Easy aid. Placements are easy and bomber. Each piece should hold a fall.
A2: Moderate aid. Solid but often awkward and strenuous placements. Maybe a difficult placement or two above good pro. Falls pose no danger.
A2+: Moderate aid, but with more tenuous placements above good pro. There is a potential for serious falls, but these will generally be otherwise uneventfull.
A3: Hard aid. Requires many tenuous placements in a row and pieces need to be tested before weighting them. There should be solid placements within the pitch, but they are rather few and far between. During a fall, up to eight pieces of pro may rip out, but there generally is little serious danger. Takes several hours to complete a pitch.
A3+: A3, but with a dangerous fall potential.
A4: Serious aid. Most placements hold little less than body weight and falls are serious affairs. Being 10 to 15 meters (30 to 50 ft) above the last solid piece is not uncommon.
A4+: Very serious aid. Placements are often very marginal and pitches, require many hours to complete.
A5: Extreme aid. No piece in the whole pitch can be trusted to hold a fall. No bolts or rivets in A5 pitches.
A6: A5 with poor belays that won't hold a fall. The leader pops and the whole team is airborne. No one sane has ever done this, and no one insane who tried came back to tell us about it. |
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